We are small roasters in Japan. There are hundreds of micro-rosters in Japan. We formed a group called “Mikataju” “Mikata” means supporter “juku” means free school. So Mikatajuku means “a free school of coffee supporters”. We started as a mailing list group. Because 5 years ago, in Japan we don’t have much information source of specialty coffee. We were so thirsty for the information.　We are located all over Japan, very north to very south. But we sometimes gathered at somebody’s shop, cupped together and shared many ideas. At that time I was the only one who can understand English. I found the website of SCAA. I translated some parts and show Mikatajuku members and they were very excited! And we noticed that there is a big SCAA conference every year. It was March and the conference would be held in April in Miami. At that time it seemed such adventure to fly to Miami not knowing what is SCAA. So I said to members “I am going there as a scout. You may want to go to the conference next year. I go there alone this year and see how things are happening. ” But they didn’t allow me to go there alone. Finally 9 of us went to Miami!

It was a surprise to experience the SCAA conference. So many people, so many booths… I think it was a Saturday night there was a party on a cruising boat presented by BSCA. Fortunately we could participate in the party. We are like baseball fans slipped into locker room of Major leaguers. I said to my friends “Look! there is George Howell. You don’t know him? Really? He is very famous cupper and the head judge of Cup of Excellence. Oh, look over there, Susie Spindler is drinking a cup of coffee. You don’t know her either…you joking! She is the founder of the Cup of Excellence program. I am sure that tall guy is Danny O’Neal. I saw him doing ribbon cutting this afternoon…He is the SCAA president.” There were many famous coffee people and producers. And we heard Mr.Trygve of Solberg & Hansen talking about his experience since they won No.1 lot from Cup of Excellence. So many producers wanted to give him samples. Literary, hundreds. For me it seemed like impossible dreams. What those people were doing at the frontier of Specialty coffee were so far away from where we were then. After the party I was depressed. How can we get closer to where they are? We are tiny roasters in Japan. We really want to work at the cutting edge of Specialty coffee. What can I do? What is the swiftest way to join that stream? I asked that question to myself many times on the way back to Japan…

For becoming true specialty roasters we should make more direct relationships with specialty producers. As a group we decided to put all our energy into Cup of Excellence. Why? Because we are so small that we cannot purchase whole container. The lots in Cup of Excellence are about between 15 to 30 bags. That much we can handle. I know they are a “ little bit” expensive but fortunately we have customers who are ready to pay more money for better quality.

Our first Cup of Excellence experience was Guatemala. We did win 13th place lot called “Danilandia”. We were so exited that we could buy a lot from Cup of Excellence. The coffee was shipped by consolidated container with other Japanese winners’ lots. I cannot forget how I was moved when I roasted Danilandia’s first batch at my place. I couldn’t believe that we could win the lot from COE. Naturally this feeling I had was contagious and my customers were also excited by this experience. Something started. Something was different from before. We have bought a lot at every COE auction since then. Next year I visited Nicaragua as an international juror of COE competition. It was such an honor for me. I learned a lot from the competition.

2002 was the turning point. We won the No.1 lot “Agua Limpa Ⅱ” from Brazil COE at the record price of that time $12.85 /lb. The coffee was so great and we couldn’t tolerate that this coffee would go to somebody else. Price was not the issue. This coffee had power. It shocked many people. Our customer never experienced such Brazilian coffee before.

A magazine called “ Brutus” featured my town Karuizawa. Karuizawa located northwest of Tokyo about 200km away. The Altitude there is 1,000 m, and in summer it is cool there. About 100 years ago Scottish missionary people found that Karuizawa’s weather is very similar to their home land, they started to come to Karuizawa for summer vacation. Then royal family and politicians started to come to Karuizawa. This was the beginning of Karuizawa as the first summer resort in Japan. Karuizawa is known as the high class summer resort and many people dream about having their second house in Karuizawa. Anyway this magazine Brutus’s feature was “ 80 reasons why people want to live in Karuizawa”. 29th reason was “ you can taste No.1 Brazil at Maruyama Coffee. Many coffee drinkers of world envy you.” Many artists, creators, writers and media people read this magazine. “What is Maruyama Coffee? Where in Karuizawa? ” Many people visited my shop for that coffee. Now I cannot miss No 1 lot from Brazil! Since then we have been winning Brazil No.1 three times but at the last auction the price went to $49.75 /lb. We couldn’t win. But I think it is great that great coffee can reach to that height. For outside people the concept of COE is very easy to understand. Customers understand the COE concept. The market supports it. They love great coffees. They have been waiting for such coffees to appear. They have experienced with wine, tea…. Now coffee’s turn.

How this program changed us? In 2001 we are imported just two containers of specialty coffee directory from origin. 2005 we imported 12 containers. COE helped not only those small lot businesses but helped us to make long term relationship with specialty producers in container size business. This program helps us to know where there are excellent producers. But also it helps producers to know where there are specialty buyers. This program bridges specialty producers to specialty roasters. Now we know to whom we should send a love letter.

I am a still small roaster but in these 5years I changed totally. COE program can totally change your business, your motivation, your skill and your coffee world. At the competition you meet the best group of specialty cuppers. We all become good friends. We become a part of family. You go to farm tour afterwards. You meet an owner of Grand Cru farm. You may be surprised how small his or her farm is. He or she may be surprised how small is your business also! It’s very good….Because specialty always start from the small. We can grow together.

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